sapphire
Sapphires extend far beyond blue. Look for colour you genuinely like, lively light return and a cut that feels balanced. Ask what treatment the stone has received.
finer gemstone guide
choose a gemstone with confidence
Colour is personal. The right gemstone balances hue, cut, durability, treatment and how you will actually wear it. This guide gives you the essentials before you choose or commission a piece.
01 / start with the stone
four distinctive directions
There is no single “best” gemstone. Start with the colour and character you are drawn to, then judge the individual stone on its own beauty and suitability for the piece.
emerald
Emeralds are valued for rich green colour and natural character. Inclusions are common, so judge transparency, colour and overall appearance rather than chasing flawless clarity.
ruby
Ruby is the red variety of corundum. Strong, appealing red colour usually matters more than small clarity differences, provided inclusions do not distract from the stone or compromise durability.
yellow diamond
With yellow diamonds, colour intensity is the headline. Compare stones face-up and look at how the cut carries colour while still giving the diamond brightness and life.
02 / what to judge first
colour leads, then the whole stone
Diamond-style grading is too rigid for coloured gems. Colour is usually the first decision, while clarity standards vary by gem type. Cut should support the colour and make the stone look lively. Carat weight matters, but face-up dimensions and visual presence can be more useful than the number alone.
01
colour
Look at hue, tone and saturation together. The strongest choice is not always the darkest stone, it is the one whose colour remains attractive in normal light and across the face of the gem.
02
clarity
Expectations depend on the gemstone. Some materials commonly show inclusions. Focus on whether they affect beauty, transparency or durability rather than treating every visible inclusion as a defect.
03
cut
A strong cut gives the stone pleasing proportions, symmetry and polish while preserving attractive colour. Watch for a dull centre, obvious windowing or unnecessary depth that adds weight without adding beauty.
03 / shape
shape changes the character
Shape is a design choice, not a quality grade. Compare how each outline sits on the hand and how it works with the setting, proportions and colour of the individual stone.
round
princess
cushion
pear
heart
emerald
oval
asscher
marquise
radiant
04 / treatments
treatment should never be an afterthought
Gemstone treatments are not automatically a problem. What matters is knowing what has been done, how it affects value and whether it changes how the jewellery should be cared for.
01
heat
Heat treatment is commonly used with gemstones such as sapphire and ruby to alter colour or clarity. Ask for treatment disclosure when comparing stones.
02
fissure filling
Oils or resins can be used to make surface-reaching fissures less visible, particularly in emerald. The type and extent of treatment can affect value and care.
03
colour modification
Dyeing, coating, diffusion or irradiation can alter appearance in different gem materials. Durability and value implications vary, so disclosure matters.
05 / wearability
design around real life
A beautiful stone can still be the wrong choice if the jewellery is designed for a lifestyle it cannot handle. Stone, setting and intended wear should be decided together.
rings
Rings take the most knocks. For frequent wear, consider durability, vulnerable corners and points, setting protection and whether the gemstone has treatments that change care requirements.
earrings & necklaces
These pieces usually face less impact than rings, which can make them suitable for gemstones that need a little more care or for cuts with finer edges.
everyday pieces
Do not rely on hardness alone. Toughness, cleavage, inclusions, setting style and treatment all affect how comfortably a gemstone can live with daily wear.
06 / common questions
before you choose
Are gemstones suitable for engagement rings?
Some are very well suited, but durability varies by gemstone. Sapphire and ruby are strong candidates for frequent wear. Emerald can also be used beautifully, but the setting and care routine should account for its natural inclusions and common treatments.
Are treated gemstones acceptable?
Yes. Many gemstone treatments are established and widely used. The important points are disclosure, whether the price reflects the treatment and whether it changes cleaning or care requirements.
How should I clean gemstone jewellery?
There is no single cleaning method that is safe for every gemstone and treatment. Mild soap, lukewarm water and a soft brush are suitable for many durable untreated or heat-treated stones, but steam and ultrasonic cleaning should only be used when the specific gemstone and treatment are known to be suitable.
Should I choose by carat weight?
Not by carat weight alone. Different gemstones have different densities and cuts, so two stones of the same weight can look very different face-up. Compare dimensions, proportions, colour and overall presence together.
finer custom jewellery
want a gemstone chosen around you?
Tell us the colour, shape, budget and feeling you want from the piece. We can build the design around the stone rather than forcing the stone into a fixed template.
